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ZT issues (One for Matt really)

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Post  Sambomonkee 22/3/2012, 5:52 am

Issues discovered.

1. Overheats (stuck obd reader on it, and watched it steadily climb to about 85 degress, and then drop a bit to 77, then it just when up to 110, fan came on but it kept on climbing, got to about 114 before I turned it off),
Checked the rad and pipes, they where stone cold.

2. No heat in cabin, pipes in and out of the bulk head are stone cold.

I have a PRT, so that is the first thing I'm going to change, ordered the freelander one, if that doesn't work Oil cooler, then water pump (although that's only 10k miles old)



3. When engine was cold, blipping the throttle quite hard, the engine quite badly hesitated, fine when warmed up, I think its a fuelling issue, as the revs was 900 on key turn when I would have thought it would be higher when cold.

4. Tapping (a little more than I would like from a K, seems to be coming from inlet side, but guessing tappets, anything else to check.


For info, oil is clean (well no mayo - It needs a good service) and the water is clear as well.


Last edited by Sambomonkee on 22/3/2012, 6:57 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Post  cejsmith 22/3/2012, 7:46 am

Lee

If you want to compare the engine with mine and what it sounds like, temps etc give me a shout.
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Post  Sambomonkee 22/3/2012, 8:10 am

Colin, that might be helpful, I'll Pm you later in the week, that said I did find a video clip of a 75 1.8, and its sounds the same as mine, and that one is good and working.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O_DqU_T_ic&feature=related

You have to skip forward past the dull bits Smile
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Post  Matt Parker 24/3/2012, 7:59 am

Cooling wise it could be the stat but the PRT's don't tend to fail that much, no where near as often compared to a standard rear mounted stat. As the temperture sudden rises even with the fan on and the heater pipes are cold you have an air block in the system. First thing to do is drain off what is in the system but whilst doing this you can remove the coolant rail to radiator hose and run the engine to see if the water pump is pumping, then make sure the coolant pipes are all clear, mainly the smaller bled off pipes from turbo and the inlet manifold. Fill the system and bleed out and run the engine to see how it performs. (if unsure just use water for now to save wasting antifreeze)

The hesitant blip when cold, have to used your scanner to see what the sensors are seeing, the MAP, coolant, lambda and potentiometer? The 900rpm for idle is about right, what tempeture was this, just started from stone cold or when warming(after afew starting/testing attempts)? Also what are the stat and model of the spark plugs fitted, just incase you have the wrong plugs fitted that are designed to work at hotter tempretures.

Tapping could be the hydraulic followers(tappets) or it could be the injectors as Turbo injectors can get rather tappy if then are tired/worn (or in my case being used to their limits lol)
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Post  Sambomonkee 24/3/2012, 8:05 am

Ok. Cheers, it does sound Like its coming from the injectors.

I have loads of sensors off the other engine so can swap injectors and sensors to see what is improved.

I have a new stat so might as well try that first, and take it from there, once overheating is sorted, I can move on to the injectors etc

Ps engine wad stone cold
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Post  Sambomonkee 24/3/2012, 10:47 pm

Sitting in the car doing an engine flush as we speak, and no over heating, not sure if it was a combintation of block pipes or the new PRT, but its working a treat so who cares, May need a new expansaion cap as that hisses abit, but so far so good. Smile
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Post  Sambomonkee 24/3/2012, 11:36 pm

Engine flush done, oil and filter change done, purring like it should Smile


EDIT : touch wood and spin around etc
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Post  Matt Parker 25/3/2012, 9:44 am

Thats always pleasing to hear, didn't you have anything else you could have done instead of coming on here whilst waiting for it to warm up like watching tv, playing a game ZT issues (One for Matt really) 356801
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