Clutch Slave or master cylinder??

[Sambomonkee]

Its getting harder to get into gear, and I have notice some clutch slip under high load, ie very hard acceleration in 1st.


The clutch pedal also has no pressure until half way down and the biting point its low. I am guessing the clutch is on its last legs, would you guys agree?

[Matt Parker]

Could be the slave cylinder being weak as that is more likely to fail rather than the master cylinder, but it could be the clutch bearing release arm corroding ansd seizing in the gearbox bell housing that is causing all the problems, the release arm shaft corrodes on the section going throught the gearbox which makes the arms stiff and does not allow the release bearing to return freely once you take your foot off the clutch, because of this is told the clutch on slightly which will cause your slip and limited free play/ pressure on the clutch pedal itself.

[Sambomonkee]

Can I check that by getting under the car, or is it internal

[Matt Parker]

Easiest way to view/check is by removing the engine inspection cover under the hood, you will then be able to see down onto the arm to check its movement whislt someone works the clutch. Whilst there you can give the arma good soaking in penitrating spray like WD40 which will help ease the arm if it is not too heavily corroded.

[Sambomonkee]

Your a genious, it looks like it sorted it out a treat, I owe you a drink

[Sambomonkee]

Bugger, whilst that worked last night, this morning it was seized again, and driving to working with no clutch was no fun (time for the ZR to come out again),

Now can I just replace the arm, or is it a case of might as well replace the whole clutch whilst at it.

[Matt Parker]

You can replace the arm for a greasable version if you wanted.

To replace the arm its a gearbox off job, as you have to unbolt the clutch bearing fork. You can leave the gearbox in the car as just move it to the side sitting ontop of the subframe so you can get into it. Whilst the box is off its makes sense to replace the clutch at the same time to save labour and time as having to do it again down the line if you didn't do the clutch whilst the box was off.

I just cleaned my arm up using a wire wheel on a grinder, make sure that all the rust has been removed and that the shaft is smooth, cover the shaft and guide bushes of the gearbox with copper grease and there shouldn't be a problem.

[Sambomonkee]

Thanks, that's what I thought, I just getting quotes off the usual suspects, as I'm not confident it doing the job myself as it would be first time to every do something like that.

I think I will watch who ever does it, so I will know how in the future.

[Tony]

I had the same thing happen to my ZS180. I went through about 3 master cylinders and a slave cylinder support bracket before the problem was properly diagnosed. It had to be stripped, cleaned greased, which as Matt says was a gearbox off job, so I had a new clutch put in at the same time as the car had done over 100k by then.

[Benjs]

Hmm this is interesting as Nick has said i need to get release arm sorted, but my clutch is totally opposite i.e. travel is not to heavy & bitting point is virtually the top of the travel. That said when i looked at it, it did look quite corroded

[Sambomonkee]

Mine is now dead, the clutch is stuck on all the time now, and peddle feels like its connected to nothing. Not fund driving, had to leave it in third and and hope that I didn't have to stop anywhere

The clutch arm does appear to be moving still, so I guess the clutch has had it. Anyway, as part of the new clutch process I will just get a new arm as well to be safe.

The question is now, will it be done now, or wait to it comes out of hibernation next year.

[Sambomonkee]

Right spoke to MG in Northampton, and he reckons he has never replaced a clutch on an MGF, he said they last for ever . I did a double take and made him repeat that as I found it hard to believe!!

He said its move likely the slave cylinder, he said take it off and try to loosen the arm by hand and replace the slave cylinder.

Now, this is something I can do this weekend, and I suppose I should try this before sending it of for a new clutch and the extra expense that incurrs, after all I am a tight bugger

[Matt Parker]

Never done a clutch on an F/TF, have they only worked on them between 1995 and 1996 then

I have done several clutchs on MGF's as a clutch is a common wear item of all cars, the less likely items to go on them is the slave cylinder and master cylinders. You will always find that when the clutch has gone on an F/TF that the clutch release bearing arm will either be seized solid in the bell housing or very stiff.

If the slave cylinder has gone its usually done to 2 reasons ands that is either the cars has stood about and the seal has deteriorated allowing it to leak or the clutch release bearing arm has seized solid and the ammount of pressure the vehicle user has applied to get the cluthc to work has popped the cylinder.

As he has mentioned disconnect the slave cylinder from the release bearing arm and try and free the arm up, lots of WD40 and leverage back and forth will help free it off but this is only a temporary repair as you need to remove the arm completely, remove all the corroded section and make sure it is well lubricated with copper grease when refitted and make sure there will be some all around the top of the arm input to the bell housing to reduce the ammount of moisture able to get into the arm shaft.

[Sambomonkee]

Thanks Matt, the car sits around alot, it can go months without moving, and last winter it didn't move for 6 months (yes I'm a tart).

I will check it all this weekend, but will get the clutch replaced as a matter of course.

[Sambomonkee]

.........and shes fixed.

Checked this morning, and found no clutch fluid, so checked master, which looked good and no leaks, so that only left the slave. Went to Bicester scrappy, got a slave unit, got home, realised left my tools there so had to go back, doh. Fitted the slave, bleed the system (that takes ages). Now its like having a new clutch, bites about mid way up now.

So for a 5 pound replacement part and 10 pounds worth of fluid job is a gooden. Also managed to underseal the car and fit the lotus decat back on. Good day.

[Matt Parker]

Nice

How did you bleed the system as they are a pain unless you have a pressure bleeder to force the fluid through.

[Sambomonkee]

Well I was on the nipple, and I had the rest of the family taking in turns on the clutch peddle for about 30 minutes or so, eventually it started to pass all of the air out of the nipple.

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