Umm, yes I have another Zed

[Sambomonkee]

Just managed to get hold of this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZR-160-spares-or-repairs-/111030256013?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19d9eb418d

From my reckoning, it is one of the very first ZR's looking at its reg date, its one day after it was in production, so I'm guessing its a low build number. Anyway at the price I paid for it, cant go wrong. Its either a VVC unit, or as I suspect a block oil way or two, which is easy to fix.

I have finally decided to off load the ZS, I'm sure no one on here wants it knowing the trouble I have had, but the link is on .org, showing the current state of play

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=5376445#post5376445

[cejsmith]

Lee

Your mad mate, you really need to get a lockup and go into car dealing!!!!

I'll come and work with you

[Sambomonkee]

How about mg rover restoration, 90 onwards etc avoids those old mgb things

[cejsmith]

sounds good to me

[Matt Parker]

bargin done well there Lee.

shame about the ZS in more ways than the obvious one you have to sell, also because I would have it but as of this week the house takes pride now acting as a giant money sponge

If you decide the break the ZR dibs on the gear linkage please as I need another for the other Metro

[Sambomonkee]

Well it has turned out to be a nice surprise.

Body work is nye on mint, good alloys, interior good, although needs a major clean.

The engine whilst tapping, is very nice, runs very fast indeed (feels bloody quick), it wheels spins in first all the way through the range, and hits the red line fine, so VVC are working well.

No sign of oil leaks or anything nasty. The oil in the filler (cam carrier area, looks a bit sludgy, though the oil on dip looks clean. It sounds like to me a sticky lifter or two, I will try wynns first then strip the cam carrier off and clean the tappets and oil ways, which I think will solve it.

A bonus also it has full Jan Speed exhaust on it, probably worth more than the car

Matt, one thing it does do it struggle to start, Ie it starts on first key turn, but nearly stalls before idling at the correct revs, what sensor would that be, throttle body one???

All in for 290 bit of bargain.

[Matt Parker]

You got this off Tony in Andover didn't you

The stalling upon start up is usually the idle valve, either its dirty and sticking or getting weak and possible soon require changing. Take the valve out and give it a clean and whilst at it clean out the throttle body and breather ports. Do you havea any diagnostics tools, not just a basic code reader something that can read the sensor outputs? as be worth plugging it in to read what the sensors are seeing/doing.

[Sambomonkee]

You got this off Tony in Andover didn't you

The stalling upon start up is usually the idle valve, either its dirty and sticking or getting weak and possible soon require changing. Take the valve out and give it a clean and whilst at it clean out the throttle body and breather ports. Do you havea any diagnostics tools, not just a basic code reader something that can read the sensor outputs? as be worth plugging it in to read what the sensors are seeing/doing.

Yup, from what I could tell he like Metros, I assume you know him though, please tell me he's not another George

Ps, where is the valve ?

[Matt Parker]

Not from what I know, he is really helpful to people with parts.

The valve is on the inlet manifold next to the throttle body, held on by 4 torx screws.

[Sambomonkee]

Ok took it off sprayed it with Wd40, is there a way to test whislt off the car.

[Matt Parker]

Idealy you want to use carb cleared etc, you can check basic operation by plugging it in(wiring) put ignition on and you should see it twitch then you can start the engine(idle will be high due to the idle valve being off and having a large hole in the inlet but you can control this with you finger blocking the hole enough to lower the idle speed, then rev the engine so the action of the throttle body with switch off the idle valve so your see it push out effectively closing the idle path. If you don't really see any movement then the valve is faulty.

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