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Zs rear brake caliper/piston

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Post  c-j 23/8/2012, 6:47 am

Hi folks,
Any thoughts on the following much appreciated - cheers.

1) re zs rear brakes, is it possible that if the caliper piston comes out too far it gets permanently stuck? I've always been able to wind it back in but had a pad fail (not sure why yet) and the piston has come a long way out and impossible to turn.

2) or does it become much easier if I open the bleed nipple. Always managed to retract without by just loosening reservoir cap and turning. If I clamp off the hose fully, would I still need to bleed.

Apologies for the daft questions, car in bits on drive!
The piston is out 2mm too far to get my draper rewind block in, so just working out whether to invest in a bleed kit, proper rewind jig thingy, bigger chisel or all 3!

Thanks
Chris
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Post  Tony 23/8/2012, 7:16 am

A simple one man bleed kit is fairly cheap at Halfords. May be worth the investment just in case.
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Post  Captain Slow 23/8/2012, 7:57 am

Opening the bleed nipple may make it easier to wind the piston back in, you can try a pair of pliers but it's a dark art getting the right amount of push and turn Laughing
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Post  c-j 23/8/2012, 9:15 am

cheers for quick replies - appreciated.

if opening bleed nipple only likely to help a bit, I guess I'll have to try both a better wind back tool (laser type), plus opening nipple & then bleed.

Halfords here we come!
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Post  c-j 24/8/2012, 4:37 am

Quick update, exactly as suggested by a few people the piston has siezed/locked in the fully out position and not keen to move! New caliper time.
Cheers again.
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Post  paulzs180 24/8/2012, 4:46 am

c-j wrote:Quick update, exactly as suggested by a few people the piston has siezed/locked in the fully out position and not keen to move! New caliper time.
Cheers again.
I think I have same problem with my zr.... Just being bothered to do the job is what's holding me back lol
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Post  Matt Parker 24/8/2012, 7:14 am

You can free the piston off to get the caliper working again.

Whats happened is either of 2 things, 1 is that the piston has come to the end of its travel on the screw thread putting the piston at a slight angle in the caliper so it can't move due to being wedged in, or 2 the piston has suffered bad corrosion(common due to dust seal deterioration) and this is causing the piston to be seized in the caliper.

If you do not opt for a direct replacement caliper and would like to know how to solve the problem on your own caliper then let me know and I can do a little guide for you Smile
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Post  c-j 25/8/2012, 8:12 pm

Matt Parker wrote:You can free the piston off to get the caliper working again.

If you do not opt for a direct replacement caliper and would like to know how to solve the problem on your own caliper then let me know and I can do a little guide for you Smile

Matthew,
Thanks very much for info and offer - much appreciated. Either of the 2 fail modes is likely, but most probably the 1st.
I like to understand and repair things so any other week I'd have been up for playing.

However already replaced now as needed car up and running for this morning due to family trip out. (Curiously it is now mid morning and we haven't gone anywhere yet - families hey!)
Cheers
Chris
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