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Most users ever online was 275 on 8/4/2021, 5:19 am
I'm happy tonight....
3 posters
Page 1 of 1
I'm happy tonight....
.. as I have just landed myself a brand new sheddist clutch kit, should finally solve the ZS clutch pedal on the floor syndrome.
I was reading up and I have the symptoms of a system that is about to fail, Ie when you give it the beans the plastic slave heats up and the clutch no longer starts to work, this happens just before the whole system caves in.
So right chuffed seeing that they are like hens teeth.
I was reading up and I have the symptoms of a system that is about to fail, Ie when you give it the beans the plastic slave heats up and the clutch no longer starts to work, this happens just before the whole system caves in.
So right chuffed seeing that they are like hens teeth.
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
While you have everything apart, thoroughly grease the clutch operating shaft that goes through the gearbox casing. It's this shaft seizing in the casing and overloading the hydaulics that causes most problems in the first place.
Tony- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
I'm actually thinking about changing the whole gearbox as its developed a slight whine, like the missus,
So if I do that I will put a new clutch in aswell and grease it all up. Makes me chuckle that I can get a low millage guaranteed gearbox for around 50 pounds!!
So if I do that I will put a new clutch in aswell and grease it all up. Makes me chuckle that I can get a low millage guaranteed gearbox for around 50 pounds!!
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Nice one, i have the kit on mine. The main reason for the kit is to get rid of the long pedal travel high biting point.
To fit the kit Tony you just remove the master and slave cylinders, you dont have to remove the gearbox but as you mentioned the clutch arm shaft does seize in the box and whilst the slave is off checking of the shaft movement is worth while as garrentee that its sticking or stiffer than it should be.
To fit the kit Tony you just remove the master and slave cylinders, you dont have to remove the gearbox but as you mentioned the clutch arm shaft does seize in the box and whilst the slave is off checking of the shaft movement is worth while as garrentee that its sticking or stiffer than it should be.
Matt Parker- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Matt Parker wrote:Nice one, i have the kit on mine. The main reason for the kit is to get rid of the long pedal travel high biting point.
Mines the opposite, just a nats off the floor, and gets worse when the engine is given a hard time, so much so it gets a little tricky to get in gear.
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Fitted today, lovely bit of kit, but.... its still knackered, clutch is now foobar, it judders like a goodun, and slips in third.
So Matt, how easy is it to change the gearbox (whines a little, diff gearbox, not going to fuss just change it all) and clutch, I guess the gearbox is just bolts??
Do I need anything special tools.
What do you reckon to whilst I'm doing it also shove a lightened fly wheel on there, depending how many pennies I have left.
Basically a good gear box is around 45 to 80 pounds, clutch, suggestions please.
Also bloody starter motor has started to stick, guess I havn't used it enough, so need a new one of those, second hand 13 pounds
So Matt, how easy is it to change the gearbox (whines a little, diff gearbox, not going to fuss just change it all) and clutch, I guess the gearbox is just bolts??
Do I need anything special tools.
What do you reckon to whilst I'm doing it also shove a lightened fly wheel on there, depending how many pennies I have left.
Basically a good gear box is around 45 to 80 pounds, clutch, suggestions please.
Also bloody starter motor has started to stick, guess I havn't used it enough, so need a new one of those, second hand 13 pounds
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Clutch ordered (AP), lightened flywheel is reserved for 235, from a guy on the xpower forums that makes them (5kg).
Just need a gearbox, maybe one lined up, starter motor still needs to be ordered.
Matt, you don't have a V6 gearbox in the depths of your storage do you??
Just need a gearbox, maybe one lined up, starter motor still needs to be ordered.
Matt, you don't have a V6 gearbox in the depths of your storage do you??
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Got abit of work to do then
I don't have a V6 PG1 but I have several others floating about the place What about rebuilding your box with new bearings? Doesn't take me long to strip a box down and rebuild it, I can have the PG1 in bits in about 5 mins and yes before any one comments it doesn't take me long to re-assemble either
I don't have a V6 PG1 but I have several others floating about the place What about rebuilding your box with new bearings? Doesn't take me long to strip a box down and rebuild it, I can have the PG1 in bits in about 5 mins and yes before any one comments it doesn't take me long to re-assemble either
Matt Parker- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Matt Parker wrote:Got abit of work to do then
I don't have a V6 PG1 but I have several others floating about the place What about rebuilding your box with new bearings? Doesn't take me long to strip a box down and rebuild it, I can have the PG1 in bits in about 5 mins and yes before any one comments it doesn't take me long to re-assemble either
Whats involved in rebuilding then in terms of parts and labour?
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
All depends on what you want to do, as in simple replace the diff bearings for steal caged bearings, replace the main shaft bearings to for steal caged, new diff seals, new syncro rings(which you shouldn't need)
Most of the time I just fit steal caged bearings on the diff's as these are the most common wear items, but depending on the function of the box I have fitted steal caged throughout like on a friends boxes for his 300bhp+ K series Turbo's. If you don't plan on having silly power or giving the car constant hard abuse on track then I would suggest you just have diff bearings and new seals.
For someone that hasn't done it before I would reconmend that you practice with a spare box first and then be extra careful when doing the one for the car Time wise it would take you around 2-3hrs being careful and paying full attendtion.
Most of the time I just fit steal caged bearings on the diff's as these are the most common wear items, but depending on the function of the box I have fitted steal caged throughout like on a friends boxes for his 300bhp+ K series Turbo's. If you don't plan on having silly power or giving the car constant hard abuse on track then I would suggest you just have diff bearings and new seals.
For someone that hasn't done it before I would reconmend that you practice with a spare box first and then be extra careful when doing the one for the car Time wise it would take you around 2-3hrs being careful and paying full attendtion.
Matt Parker- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Yes, but I bet the price of the parts come to more than 60 pounds that it would cost be to get a "good" second hand one.
If its less than that might be worth a shot.
If its less than that might be worth a shot.
Sambomonkee- Registered user
Re: I'm happy tonight....
Steal caged diff bearings I get for about £35 the pair, diff seals are £18 and then if other bearings are wanted then they are £30 each.
If the car is just for everyday use then if you can go for a second hand box, if you can find a ZS180 box in good condition(with warrentee too)
If the car is just for everyday use then if you can go for a second hand box, if you can find a ZS180 box in good condition(with warrentee too)
Matt Parker- Registered user
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