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Post  Sambomonkee 11/7/2012, 8:22 am

.. as I have just landed myself a brand new sheddist clutch kit, should finally solve the ZS clutch pedal on the floor syndrome.

I was reading up and I have the symptoms of a system that is about to fail, Ie when you give it the beans the plastic slave heats up and the clutch no longer starts to work, this happens just before the whole system caves in.

So right chuffed seeing that they are like hens teeth.

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Post  Tony 12/7/2012, 8:28 pm

While you have everything apart, thoroughly grease the clutch operating shaft that goes through the gearbox casing. It's this shaft seizing in the casing and overloading the hydaulics that causes most problems in the first place.
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Post  Sambomonkee 12/7/2012, 8:49 pm

I'm actually thinking about changing the whole gearbox as its developed a slight whine, like the missus,

So if I do that I will put a new clutch in aswell and grease it all up. Makes me chuckle that I can get a low millage guaranteed gearbox for around 50 pounds!!


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Post  Matt Parker 12/7/2012, 11:43 pm

Nice one, i have the kit on mine. The main reason for the kit is to get rid of the long pedal travel high biting point.

To fit the kit Tony you just remove the master and slave cylinders, you dont have to remove the gearbox but as you mentioned the clutch arm shaft does seize in the box and whilst the slave is off checking of the shaft movement is worth while as garrentee that its sticking or stiffer than it should be.
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Post  Sambomonkee 13/7/2012, 12:18 am

Matt Parker wrote:Nice one, i have the kit on mine. The main reason for the kit is to get rid of the long pedal travel high biting point.

Mines the opposite, just a nats off the floor, and gets worse when the engine is given a hard time, so much so it gets a little tricky to get in gear.

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Post  Sambomonkee 16/7/2012, 2:56 am

Fitted today, lovely bit of kit, but.... its still knackered, clutch is now foobar, it judders like a goodun, and slips in third.

So Matt, how easy is it to change the gearbox (whines a little, diff gearbox, not going to fuss just change it all) and clutch, I guess the gearbox is just bolts??

Do I need anything special tools.

What do you reckon to whilst I'm doing it also shove a lightened fly wheel on there, depending how many pennies I have left.

Basically a good gear box is around 45 to 80 pounds, clutch, suggestions please.

Also bloody starter motor has started to stick, guess I havn't used it enough, so need a new one of those, second hand 13 pounds Smile
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Post  Sambomonkee 17/7/2012, 4:45 am

Clutch ordered (AP), lightened flywheel is reserved for 235, from a guy on the xpower forums that makes them (5kg).

Just need a gearbox, maybe one lined up, starter motor still needs to be ordered.


Matt, you don't have a V6 gearbox in the depths of your storage do you??
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Post  Matt Parker 17/7/2012, 5:19 am

Got abit of work to do then Smile

I don't have a V6 PG1 but I have several others floating about the place Smile What about rebuilding your box with new bearings? Doesn't take me long to strip a box down and rebuild it, I can have the PG1 in bits in about 5 mins Wink and yes before any one comments it doesn't take me long to re-assemble either Tongue
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Post  Sambomonkee 17/7/2012, 5:23 am

Matt Parker wrote:Got abit of work to do then Smile

I don't have a V6 PG1 but I have several others floating about the place Smile What about rebuilding your box with new bearings? Doesn't take me long to strip a box down and rebuild it, I can have the PG1 in bits in about 5 mins Wink and yes before any one comments it doesn't take me long to re-assemble either Tongue

Whats involved in rebuilding then in terms of parts and labour?
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Post  Matt Parker 17/7/2012, 5:54 am

All depends on what you want to do, as in simple replace the diff bearings for steal caged bearings, replace the main shaft bearings to for steal caged, new diff seals, new syncro rings(which you shouldn't need)
Most of the time I just fit steal caged bearings on the diff's as these are the most common wear items, but depending on the function of the box I have fitted steal caged throughout like on a friends boxes for his 300bhp+ K series Turbo's. If you don't plan on having silly power or giving the car constant hard abuse on track then I would suggest you just have diff bearings and new seals.
For someone that hasn't done it before I would reconmend that you practice with a spare box first and then be extra careful when doing the one for the car Smile Time wise it would take you around 2-3hrs being careful and paying full attendtion.
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Post  Sambomonkee 17/7/2012, 5:56 am

Yes, but I bet the price of the parts come to more than 60 pounds that it would cost be to get a "good" second hand one.

If its less than that might be worth a shot.
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Post  Matt Parker 17/7/2012, 6:34 am

Steal caged diff bearings I get for about £35 the pair, diff seals are £18 and then if other bearings are wanted then they are £30 each.

If the car is just for everyday use then if you can go for a second hand box, if you can find a ZS180 box in good condition(with warrentee too)
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