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Post  Sambomonkee 17/9/2011, 3:59 am

Ok, to the technical people out there, (that will be Mat then Smile )

I suspect my CV joint has gone on the ZR, the reason I think this, is that when turn right it feels like its "pushing" the left hand wheel, ie every rotation it feels like the left hand wheel is sliding scrapping instead on turning (its are hard to explain really, but I guess if feels like the left wheel is on ice, plus in makes a dragging sound on the road). I have inspected the boot and there is a small hole in it, so I guess it could have been leaking for years.

Anyway, does this sound like a CV joint issue (I have already bought a new joint as this is the only thing I think it can be, I have checked all the bushes and they look fine - and I only had the cars tracking done last month so that's OK.).

And if so anybody got a step by step to replace it on a ZR.

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Post  Tony 17/9/2011, 5:01 am

I've got the MGR Rave manual which should tell you how to do it, but it's a 17mb pdf file so mau be tricky to email.
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Post  Sambomonkee 17/9/2011, 5:05 am

Doh.... just realised I already have that, better look through it then.
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Post  Matt Parker 17/9/2011, 5:24 am

If you get any faults or noises when you are turning them most likely it will be an outer constant volocity(CV) joint wear failure

The way to test it is you find a quite car park or piece of road large enough so you can drive between 10-20mph in circles on a full steering lock(do both left and right circles), if you fluctuate the speed this will increase and decrease the load applied to the joint and it should produce a sound that will either be like a clattering or grinding depending on the ammount of wear in the joint.
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Post  Sambomonkee 17/9/2011, 5:40 pm

Quick question, which way does the hub nut undo on the front left wheel, I am assuming its normal (as that is what the replacement is), ie left.

I have just broke my cheap breaker bar and want to make sure I'm pulling the correct way.
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Post  Matt Parker 18/9/2011, 6:34 am

Standard thread so its 'lefty loosy' 'righty tighty' Very Happy
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Post  Sambomonkee 29/9/2011, 4:27 am

Changed the CV joint but it still does it.

The only thing left I can think of is the steering rack, what do you think?
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Post  Matt Parker 29/9/2011, 9:58 am

Have you replaced the faulty joint. I say that because where the sound was coming from as it may have transferred through the car making it sound like its coming from the left but its actually the right for example.

Neutral May even be an inner joint but its less likely to be, more likely than the inner joint but not that common on MGR is the differential bearings are worn in the box allowing the diff to float about which then moves the crown wheel into contact with the gearbox casing, and when turning the one way applying load to the drive shaft this is then pushing onto the differential putting it under stress.
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Post  Sambomonkee 29/9/2011, 4:56 pm

No sound was made anyway, it was a "feeling" when turning right on full lock, the CV joint had to be replaced that side as the boot had a hole in it, hence my first suspicion. It just feels like the right wheel is turning right too much. and hence is getting pushed.

I can get a steering rack for 18 pounds so I guess thats the next step, as I don't like the sound of the diff issue Sad
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Post  Matt Parker 30/9/2011, 6:13 am

Sambomonkee wrote:It just feels like the right wheel is turning right too much. and hence is getting pushed.

Why do you say this? Are you getting the wheel rubbing on the body anywhere?

Before you go changing the rack I sugguest that you measure the steering tie rod arms to see if the tracking hasn't been set correctly.
What I mean by this is that the steering track may have been adjusted at some point and they adjusted it all on the one side of the rack instead of correctly adjusting both sides at the same rate, so this will leave you with 1 side with 2 threads showing from the lock nut on the tie rod and on the other side with 20 threads.
Use a measuring device either tape or vernier gauge(or steel rule if you have a small one) and measure the distance from the lock nut and the end of the threads. Idealy they should be the same but upto 10mm maximum difference.

Also check to see if the tie rod arms are bent in any way and also the basic checks for wear/play in the track rod end joints and the steering rack inner joint of the tie rod arms. If all appears fine and with the steering rack assembly then visit a local friendly garage you can trust and ask them to check the front tracking(wheel allignment) and if they could have a glance over the front end to see if anything jumps out that may be a faulty unit.

Btw, when I say friendy garage I don't mean any twitfit or ATS centres etc that specialise in this as the majority of them tend to fob you off saying you need this that and that it needed un-nessasary work, unless you know them hence why I mentioned 'trust' Smile
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