One for Matt Cam Seals

[Sambomonkee]

I needed new cam seals for the VVC, ordered them based on the part numbers, and recieved them, they are not rover parts but do have the correct part numbers. Anyway, the ones marked as rear are not red. Have you seen this before in third party parts, they all have the correct part numbers, just are all black. Im guessing the color thing is just something that rover did??

Part Nos are

LUC100290L
LUC100220L

Land rover branded ones. The numbers match the rimmers site though for the MG ZR.

[Matt Parker]

All depends on manfacture as after market ones are red, brown, black and grey. Ignor the colour coding and look at the direction of rotation markings in the seals as they all have them.
Camshaft oil seals are made with small diagonal ribs that are designed to stop oil from seaping past between the camshaft and the seal when rotating. The seals are made for front and the rear of the camshafts as the front rotates clockwise and the rears rotate counter-clockwise. Due to the different rotations the ribs in the seals are opposite for the front and rears. On the front face of the seals you have a small arrow to indicate which way the rotation is so you know which end of the camshafts they fit.
You can get ones which do not have any rotational markings and these are uni-directional fit with the oil retaining ribs being designed to keep oil in and not cause friction to wear out.

[Sambomonkee]

The lifters refuse to come apart, ive hit them on wood as hard and long as can but nought.

So has anybody got a set clean lifters i could have/buy

[Matt Parker]

Lifters come apart????

The hydraulic followers(tappets/lifters) do not come apart.

[Sambomonkee]

Lifters come apart????

The hydraulic followers(tappets/lifters) do not come apart.

They did in the zt 1.8

The middle bit comes out ie the piston, which has a spring and cup in, theres a how to on the

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=383279

[Matt Parker]

They are not designed to be stripped down and its not recommended to do so.

Never come across that guide and I wouldn't recommend people to following it. If you want to spend hours fiddling about with them then its totally up to you. If your concerned about them then I have spares you can put in if you didn't want to buy brand new ones.

[Sambomonkee]

Blimey, everybody is doing it on most forums, I did it with 1.8t and it ran sweet as a nut afterwards.

I pretty sure all of mine a stuck, as the piston has no give in at all, I cannot press or move it at all, where as the working 1.8 ones would push in and out fairly freely.

Actually there appears to be two types VVC ones and non VVC, this may explain the differences.

[Matt Parker]

There's a lot of people doing things that others do on forums that they should not and its bad advice.
Theres lots on .org and other sites I see that go on and I feel like shouting at people but its pointless because they wont listen and go off as keyboard warriors who know very little but think they can do anything, I get it quite abit with customers at work and thruthfully I'm tired of biting my lip and it will be unfortunate for someone one day that person will catch me on a bad day and I will explode

anyway back on topic if you want to strip them down and clean them out its up to you, I'd just replace for new or good used ones, or if someone wanted to clean them then I would say leave them to soak in a heavy duty engine/parts cleaner.

[Sambomonkee]

They are soaking in gunk, but its no guarantee, just been on rimmers and they are different for the VVC engine, do you have a set - VVC ones - you can send me (ones you know to be good)

I'll pay whats needed, as you say, I cannot be arsed to even try to clean them, and now you have said its a bad idea anyway, I will just replace them.

[Matt Parker]

Yeah I have a tub of them. VVC are different to mpi

[Sambomonkee]

Cool pm you paypal address and how much yoy want for them, I need good vvc ones

[Sambomonkee]

No matter order some new ones for 52 pounds, seems a good price.

[Sambomonkee]

All back together sounds nice now, think one or two lifters had seized, just replaced them all to be sure.

Still has erratic idle, but will just swap parts of the tf until i find the chappy. Seems impossible to hold the revs stable up until 2k and then all fine, ill swap the iacv over first. Should really see if there any error codes first.

Just a word about the yellow cam carrier sealant from rimmers, its crap, i did phone them to check as it looks like it had already set, rimmers said they where getting alot of complaints about it, basically its unusable, i used the blue stronger one in the end, much easier do deal with and smells nice!!!

[Matt Parker]

Sorry about not sorting the hydraulics for you been abit busy lately with the house and work so heads all over the place.

If you haven't already plugged it into diagnostics then do so and see what the readouts are, you may have stored codes but idealy you want to look at the live data to see what the sensors are picking up and go from there.

[Sambomonkee]

Well got to look at the live data, the Short term fuel trim is running at 30% (lean) !!!!

I did spot an exhaust blow after the cat, but guess those figures explain the lumpy running.

If you rev it the figures return to normal, as soon as its idlling the percentage rises back up to 30%. It does say 02 sensor working correctly and there are no fault codes.

Is this the exhaust leak, or is it a vacuum leak in the induction somewhere, could it be a coil pack or two.

[Matt Parker]

If you have an exhaust blow then this can have a big impact of the running of the system, nice quick and simple firstly get some exhaust repair sealant and patch up the blow and recheck the readings, then you can go down the route of checking for an air leak (spray wd40 etc carb cleaner around the inlet manifold and all attachments to check for leaks) or checking state of coil packs and plugs.

[Sponsored content]